
Quickly Replace Old Reccessed Lights with Retrofit LED Lights
Updating old can lights has never been easier with these Sunco retrofit LED recessed lights. They are almost as easy to install as screwing in a lightbulb – you’ve heard the old “How many ____ does it take to screw in a lightbulb” joke right? It’s simple.
My new setup is made up of Sunco lights which I’ve used in previous new installs. The cans were 6″ so that’s the size I needed here and I opted for the 3000k lumens for a nice bright light that still had a hint of yellow in it so it doesn’t look like a doctors office. These are warm white.
The steps are the following:
Step 1) turn off the lights and allow the bulbs to cool off
Step 2) unscrew the bulbs and pull down the old flange
Step 3) screw in the retrofit LED lights
Step 4) push the new lights in and enjoy!
For the LED Retrofit Lights – Click HERE 👉https://amzn.to/3BEm7TV
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Tools Used:
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3000 Lumens Sunco Retrofit Recessed Lights:
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2700 Lumens Sunco Retrofit Recessed Lights:
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Regular Sunco Recessed Lights:
https://amzn.to/3iwvUT4
#RetrofitLEDLights #SuncoLights #RecessedLights
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DON’T CLICK THIS:
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2700 and 3000, etc. refer to COLOR TEMPERATURE, in Kelvin and not brightness. Some see this as brightness, but brightness is measured in lumens, not Kelvin. Some might see color as brightness because lower color lights (i.e. 2700K, warm) is seen as less bright than a bulb of the same lumen output at 4 or 5000K (bright or daylight color).
Your video showed me the one piece of crucial information to give me the confidence to do this replacement myself. I was ready to give up but now have a new LED light installed in my hallway. Thank you!
How do yo utake them out once you put them on? The new ones i mean.
The problem is the socket is loose. I don’t think this will pass the code. You need a bracket to hold the exist old socket. When you removed old lights the socket was fit with the old can.
I did the same as what you did but having a loose socket is not right.
I have been trying to find a wafer light with the easy screw in adapter similar to your video, but I cant find it, any thoughts>
Why use these? LED BR30s are available. When these burn out, changing a light bulb gets harder to do. Especially high on a ladder with a vaulted ceiling.
Is it safe to replace the light by only flipping the switch off or should I also cut the circuit breaker?
you might have noticed some tabs on the inside of the "pot" or metal shroud. These are made for the spring wire. Set your spring wire just past the tab hook on each side and when all 4 wires are in place, just push up for a secure seating which should be perfectly centered. This makes maintenance easier as the inside fixture will slide straight down and unclip easily. Often, inside fixtures that have been "friction" fitted by twisting around will get their spring wire caught in slots in the shroud making it difficult to remove the inside fixture. (Most often you will need to bend the holding tabs out a little bit to have room to slide in the spring wires. I’m not sure all round recessed lighting comes with this handy feature, but you will appreciate you spend a few extra moments on your install if you have to do maintenance or replacement.)
Thanks man! Saved me a ton of time and money to modernize our lighting situation!
These are the worst most annoying things for DIYers to replace. Hate these things.
You mean 2700K or 3000K not “lumens” 1:13
You asked why your bulbs kept burning out. I couldn’t really tell. But they looked like LED bulbs. If they were. Make sure the light switch is rates for LED bulbs. Especially if it’s a dimmer. I’ve had old switches cause my bulbs to burn out sooner then they should.
darn! I was hoping this was a hard wire led flip. I wish I watched this before I bought my led replacement light!
Where can I get that metal housing (@00:40) that was on the old setup? I am going back to using a bulb and the shroud doesn’t bit because the springs can’t attach to the canned housing (where your spring clips slide into).
Great video!!! Buy American!!!!! 🇺🇸
3000lum??? You mean 3000K as temperature?
Thanks does this also work with replacing halogens ?
Don’t you need torsion clips to hold the spring in the can? seems like these would slip down over time.
Very nice video! Very simple and easy to follow along with
Bulb burn out could be due to having a higher amp/voltage output in the home than the fixture can handle. You need to check what voltage the fixture handles and what volt output the junction box has. I have seen some homes run on 220V and most fixtures use 110V. Hope this helps.
Heh bro. A quick mention here. I’ve been replacing blown recessed led fixture for a little while, and when I do I use the tension spring you’re referring to. That was until I found that the can I’m installing into does NOT have 2 opposing clips into which my springs would typically fit. With all that tension in the springs, you’d think the two would push against the wall of the can and keep the fixture up there.
Well, after having 2 of the 6 installs actually depart from the can (no sweat of course…the fixture stays connected and they’re very light), I started googling to find that tension springs don’t just go against the walls of a can. They are actually supposed to go through a clip on opposed sides—clips that are built onto the can’s walls. If you don’t have the clips, you should not use tension springs. I’ve had one dangle from the ceiling 2 weeks after I installed it. Talk about embarrassing!
Just an fyi
I wonderful where do you get your 3 light bar, they are pretty
close but no cigar. You’re essentially reducing the size of the light to a 4" light
On the old bulb burnout an electrician told me we screwed in too tightly. He told me to screw it in while light switch was on. Worked perfectly after I ruined 3 in a row.
Led lights suck. No warmth. 3000k will make you old quick. Buy very low k
Love it but can’t figure me model numbers of large guts up used
Don’t forget this: https://youtu.be/C8XzhHxRtzc
Regarding your old incandescent bulbs burning out constantly, I may have an answer. Let me tell you a story. 17 years ago, I did a major renovation to my home. Installed maybe 20 hi-hats with BR40 bulbs. The bulbs lasted forever. I went more than a a decade without a single bulb burning out. finally, in the kitchen, the highest use area of the house, I had my first bulb burn out after 12 years. I went to Home Depot, got a bulb, three months later, burned out. I got another and another, same thing. At 17 years now, I still have most of the original bulbs throughout the house, still working fine, but lost a few more, and no joy with the replacements. What gives?
Now it get’s interesting. The bulbs I got at Home Depot were standard 65W bulbs. I remembered that when I first installed all the bulbs, I bought 85W Satco heavy duty use bulbs rated for 130V. The life of a tungsten filament increases exponentially with a drop in voltage, so running a 130V bulb at 120V or less increases life waaaay more than 10%. Plus, the filaments are thicker for a heavy duty bulb. And the 85W bulb will give out the same light and consume the same power as a 65W bulb when operated at 120V instead of 130V. Of course, the original bulbs I bought were no longer available (banned?) but eventually, I found a few cases of the exact 85W bulbs in stock at an online supplier. I snatched them up and problem solved. No more burned out bulbs.
Of course, now I’m looking to replace everything with LEDs. Until very recently, the LED floods were TERRIBLE, with very poor color rendering. Now, they’ve gotten much better, with CRI 90+ available. It’ll be hard to let go of the old bulbs, but if I can get decent LEDs, I’ll be happy to lower my electric bill and save the planet.
Lumens = Total quantity of visible light. Kelvin = Color temperature of a light source. CRI = Color Rendering Index -> Go for 90+.
Unless I’m mistaken, the way you just put the socket into the Can, It can possible touch the metal if the can and short out.
My retro fit will not stay up in can. No flanges on side of old can to hold. What do I do?
You should’ve just put an LED bulb in the existing fixture. The light you used is meant to be a stand alone light in a fresh cut hole in drywall. The springs aren’t meant to hold the fixture inside a metal can.
Do they make square LED retrofits
Did they last? I have the same issue with my LED bulbs dying every 1.5 years. I plan on installing these.
the ceramic bulb holders were probably getting super hot and causing the bulbs to blow
What is this sorcery. Why didn’t someone tell me I could replace those stupid flood lights in my bathroom years ago..
7 year warranty on made in china junk…..yeah good luck with that.
Thanks for the video. I cannot use newer LEDs in my house as they burn out fairly quickly. So I have started to replace them. I started with a contractor in our kitchen, but if I can do the swap like in your video.. awesome sauce! I think I have full cans though.. sad face.
Is it ok to leave the light sockets like that above new LED light? I have similar set up, was not sure if letting connected sockets rest on top of LED was ok.
2000 lumens? i don’t think so
He doesn’t understand "lumens". 2700 or 3000 "lumens" he’s referring to color temperature, not brightness. Ugh.
You are referring to color temperature, not lumens. Lumens is brightness and temperature is the color or whiteness of the light. 5000 lumens would blind the heck out of you. Those light are about 900 lumens.
Our old canned lights are 7-7-1/2". The retrofits are for 5-6" lights. Therefore, the springs do not hold the retrofit in place. Do you have any ideas on how we can find retrofits to work for the 7" can?
So, I am using a Feit replacement light and the spring clips are set at 6" and the light won’t stay up flush with the ceiling. Is there something that I am missing here. I followed your video and it still will not stay up tight to the ceiling, best I can get to is about a 3/8 gap on one side. Any ideas on a solution? Thanks
Why not just put LED bulbs in there?
Thanks for help me out, You Are The Man🦾
So my existing cans do not have clips inside to pull out to allow the springs to slide into to hold the can flush, suggestions? Thanks
This was helpful. At least I know what to order and how to put them in…unfortunately, my canned lights do not pop out that easily. The tabs are at the top, spaced so far apart I would need both with my little female hands to pinch them and they are so STIFF I’m not even budging them. Nothing is ever easy.
So appreciate a quality short and to the point video that explained everything I needed and didn’t waste my time with extra components – well done!
How about if you need the pRt that needs to screw recessed bulb in.